Alochi Nava – a necklace echoing tradition
In the tribal culture of Afghanistan and the Pakistani border, jewelry serves not only decorative purposes but also symbolic, ritual, and identity-giving ones. One of the most characteristic examples of such an item is the Alochi Nava – a ceremonial necklace worn by women, which for generations has accompanied the most important moments of life, such as weddings, childbirth, and holidays. The name derives from local languages – "Alochi" can mean a woman dressed in her finest, while "Nava" refers to youth, newness, and sometimes even a "new way of life" such as marriage. Such necklaces, massive and full of symbolism, are not just a piece of clothing – they convey the history and heritage of entire communities.
A distinctive feature of the Alochi Nava is its monumental size and design. The central panel – usually rectangular or square – is a kind of medallion, tightly covered with a mosaic of colored glass, symbolizing the three main elements: red (life and blood), green (fertility and protection), and blue (sky and spirituality). These colors, though they may seem random, are not a coincidence – they reflect fundamental values in Afghan tradition. Numerous metal bells, pendants, "teardrops," and decorative plates are suspended around the medallion, moving with the woman's movements, creating a mesmerizing sound and dance of light. Wearing such a necklace is a ritual in itself.
Equally impressive is the carrying strap – a wide section that fits around the neck and shoulders, often made of embroidered fabric or embellished with metal elements. It can be covered with additional fabric (often green or red), adorned with beads, sequins, or tribal embroidery. In ancient times, such ornate necklaces were handcrafted by women from a single family, passed down through generations, and formed part of a bride's dowry. Many were protected like relics—kept in chests and taken out only for rituals, holidays, and celebrations.
Alochi Nava also had protective significance. Its massive form and the sounds made by the pendants were believed to protect women from the "evil eye," envy, and charms. The designs on the medallion were often talismanic in nature—they featured symbols of the tree of life, raindrops, stylized plant motifs, or geometric patterns, which, according to local beliefs, held protective powers. A woman wearing such a necklace was perceived as blessed, strong, and dignified. In this way, the jewelry acquired spiritual significance, transcending its decorative function.
Today, original Alochi Nava pieces are rare. Finding an authentic, handmade piece is almost impossible – many of these necklaces were lost during wars, migrations, or dismantled for trade. Some pieces can still be found in regions of Balochistan or southern Afghanistan, but most have already found their way into the hands of collectors, anthropologists, and museum curators. Those that find their way to Europe today usually come from secondary circulation or private collections – their cultural value increases with each passing year.
Wearing Alochi Nava in the modern world is a gesture of respect for ancient cultures and their spiritual heritage. It is also a form of conscious choice – instead of mass-produced, disposable jewelry, a woman chooses an authentic artifact with soul, full of meaning and history. In a time when fashion can be fleeting, Alochi Nava remains enduringly beautiful, proud, and filled with tribal majesty – an echo of the voices of ancestors who needed no words to express their strength.
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