Lào Cai province and the traditional markets of the H'Mông nation

Stanisław Kozłowski | Customs

The mountainous Lao Cai province of northern Vietnam is 300 kilometers from the capital Hanoi. It lies on both sides of the valley through which the Red River flows, and borders China to the north. More than a hundred rivers and streams with a length of more than 10 km flow through the province. Lao Cai's climate varies, with a tropical climate in the valleys with an average temperature of 22-24°C. In the higher regions, the climate is semi-tropical and mild. The capital of the province is the 100,000-strong city of the same name, but it is not the city that makes Lao Cai attractive.

The Lao Cai area is one of the most beautiful places in Vietnam. It is inhabited by numerous ethnic minorities. Vietnam is a country where 54 different peoples with their own history, culture and language meet. More than 20 of them are represented in Lao Cai province. The largest group, aside from the ethnic Vietnamese (Kinh), are the H'Mong, called Miao on the Chinese side of the border. In China, they live mainly in Guizhou province.

Lao Cai highlanders fair

The H'Mong live in tribal villages in the mountain jungle, speak their own language, often without even knowing Vietnamese, and sell cattle, poultry, vegetables, and handicrafts - traditional clothing and household items - at local markets. The H'Mong can be distinguished by their distinctive clothing. Women wear multicolored striped skirts and bedspreads, checkered scarves. The cut of the clothing is not particularly complicated, and the visual richness is given by a variety of embroideries, appliqués, and ornaments. A H'Mong woman's reputation depends on her attire, and social standing is judged by the quantity and quality of her clothes and silver jewelry. Their neighbors call them "rainbow people," because the very numerous subgroups of this nation are distinguished by the dominant color of their attire. Thus, there are H'Mong Greens, Blacks, Reds and Flowers.

A huge attraction is the traditional fairs attended by ethnic minorities living nearby. They are the main event in the area, and people come to the market not only to sell and buy goods, but also to eat and hang out. There is the best opportunity to exchange news, gossip, and meet friends from neighboring villages. They often set out from their villages at night to make it in time for the opening at dawn.

Whole families come to H'Mong fairs. Here, family and community ties are much more important than in Western culture. Each H'Mong belongs to a particular tribe, a unification of many families that ensures the strengthening of social ties, security and prosperity within the group. Membership in the tribe is determined at birth. They attach great importance to their independence - "H'Mong" means "free man."

Market day in Lao Cai province begins with a hearty breakfast, a traditional satiating soup with meat and noodles. Vegetarianism is not in vogue among the H'Mong. They drink local dishes with rice vodka or samogon - a natural product, a remedy for better digestion. Long tables with benches stand all over the market under canopies. You can also see market kitchens with cauldrons and special dishes. Although the use of dog meat is becoming a thing of the past, and is even banned in some regions, in the north of Vietnam dogs are still used for more than just guarding the farmyard.

A special place in the markets of the H'Mong and other ethnic minorities is occupied by "live goods": horned cattle, pigs, fowl. Buffaloes are sold here and bought directly for field work, and since they are very expensive animals, both sides bargain for a long time.

If the buffalo failed to sell, it toils in the owner's rice field for another week and returns to the market again - no loss. A buffalo for farm work should be large and strong. Investment in a young individual ensures future income, in a year or two you can sell it at a profit.

Bắc Hà's weekly market.

Bắc Hàto a village almost on the very border between northern Vietnam and China. It is more than 300 kilometers from Hanoi and 100 kilometers from the popular tourist town of Sa Pa. In truth, it's not such a small village, in terms of size it's not inferior to - and perhaps even larger than - the aforementioned Sa Pa, with a population of over 7,000. Nevertheless, for some reason it is stubbornly called a village and not a city.

Even such a large town lost in the magnificent landscape of the mountains wouldn't be particularly interesting if it weren't for the amazing Sunday market, which is an unusual local attraction. This is one of the largest ethnic fairs in the region, and representatives of various national minorities living in the surrounding villages and even from neighboring Chinese provinces flock to it, and come down from all directions. Unlike the market in downtown Sa Pa, this one is not geared toward souvenirs for tourists, but actually serves to exchange goods between tribes. Local residents also dress their flowery outfits not for tourists, as in Sa Pa, but solely because that's the way they wear it here. There are also plenty of magnificent mountain landscapes with waterfalls and terraced rice fields around Bac Ha.

Just to stroll through the market, to look at the people of the surrounding mountains, dressed in their folk costumes, tourists come here from as far away as Hanoi. Sure there are other markets in Lao Cai, maybe even bigger ones, but the one in Bac Ha is completely authentic, filled with smells, sounds and colors, characteristic of the region and its people. It's not uncommon to see several generations of one family in the market. Even the tiny H'Mong tied to their mothers' backs, from their first days of life, do not miss an opportunity to take part in important events for the nation.

Rice fields and H'Mong villages around Sa Pa

The town of Sa Pa is a mountain resort founded by the French during colonial times. It has become a popular tourist destination known worldwide. There are picturesque rice fields all around, and the surrounding mountains hide villages of the H'Mong and other local peoples. Here are some places to visit there:

Mount Ham Rong - lies in the center of Sa Pa and can be reached on foot from the city. The mountain looks from a distance like a flying dragon, hence the origin of the name "Ham Rong". There is a large garden on the mountain, where numerous species of flowers are grown, most notably orchids. From the top there is a great view of the surrounding area.
Old stone church - is located in the center of town, near the road to Ham Rong Mountain. It was erected in 1895. It is a symbol of Sa Pa and the last vestige of old architecture from the colonial era.
Top of Mount Fansipan - Mount Fansiapn belongs to the Lien Son mountain chain and is the highest peak in Vietnam (3143 m). The top of the mountain is called "the roof of Indochina" and is the pride of the country. It used to take three days to climb this mountain and was not an easy thing to do, having to hike through mountains and forests. Today, you can easily get to the top in a few minutes by cable car.
Thevillage of Cat Cat - located 2 km from the town of Sa Pa - has been inhabited by the Black H'Mong for generations. On the way to the village one passes rice fields on terraces. A winding stream runs through the village. You can buy folk wares, such as colorful costumes and silverware.
Lao Chai Village - Lao Chai and Ta Van are side-by-side villages that remain on the sidelines of tourism. They are located in a valley and are surrounded by mountains and rice fields.
Ta Phin Village - about 11 kilometers from Sa Pa lies the village of the Red Dao nation, Vietnam's ethnic minority. The Red Dao are famous for making textiles and traditional herbalism. A visit to Ta Phin can be combined with a visit to Ma Tra - a nearby H'Mong village.
Muong Hoa Valley - to get to it, you have to take a winding mountainous route. The valley looks huge, being about 8 square kilometers. The valley has the most beautiful terraced fields near Sa Pa. The houses of local residents look like small points from a distance. A peculiarity are huge rock blocks (almost 200 pieces) next to rice paddies with mysterious drawings.