Chinese fashion gallery - from hanfu to Mao's uniform

The history of Chinese fashion is a reflection of the country's national history. Over many centuries, the way Chinese people dressed depended on political, economic and religious factors. Chinese society was highly hierarchical, and the cut, type of fabric and color of clothing served as an indicator of social standing, gender and occupation.

Hanfu - what was worn at the emperor's court?

True to its name, hanfu is the attire of the Han people, or ethnic Chinese. The history of the hanfu is more than 3,000 years old. The cut of this attire changed at different times, but its basis was a narrow tunic girded with a wide belt, over which a long shirt and a long, loose coat were worn. The width of the sleeves indicated a noble origin and could reach up to 240 cm.

The Chinese emperor wore a golden silk hanfu, consisting of several layers. A garment of yellow, considered divine, decorated with images of dragons, could only be worn by the ruler. Embroidered animals and birds spoke of the rank of an imperial official. Nine civilian ranks corresponded to nine birds, including the crane, peacock and pheasant, while military officers wore embroidered animals: lion, tiger, bear, rhinoceros and others.

An important part of the costume was headgear, which was not removed even during ceremonies. An ingenious emperor of the Sui dynasty obliged all his officials to wear hats with wide brims so that they would not whisper among themselves during gatherings, leaning toward each other.

The art of beauty care has always stood at a high level in China. Court ladies wore elaborate costumes, fancy hairstyles and sharp makeup. Fans and umbrellas were in common use. Silk outfits were decorated with pearls and expensive stones. It is said that the famous imperial concubine Yang (8th century AD) had as many as 700 seamstresses and embroiderers at her disposal to fulfill her fashion whims.

Clean and saturated colors of fabrics (with the exception of yellow, reserved for the emperor) could only be used by the upper classes; peasants wore gray and pale-colored clothes.

For fashion and beauty, Chinese women were ready to make great sacrifices and sufferings. For example, in the 10th century there was a fashion in China for "lotus feet", which became a symbol of beauty and good descent. The ideal foot should be 7 -12 centimeters, which means it should fit into a liquor bowl. At first this painful luxury (foot restraint to prevent their growth was associated with lifelong suffering) was allowed only to ladies who did not have to deal with work. Over time, however, the custom spread throughout the country and penetrated all strata of society. In some provinces, as many as 80% of women drone on their "lotus feet." Interestingly, even imperial decrees failed to stop the custom and it was only eradicated in the People's Republic of China in the mid-20th century.

Qipao - Manchurian dress and braid or death

In the 17th century, the Manchus conquered China and established a new Qing dynasty. In the aftermath, the country also saw a completely different fashion from before. Traditional Chinese hanfu dress was banned. The Chinese called the Manchurians "qiren" (people with flags), as every significant one of them had his own flag. The attire imposed by the invaders therefore began to be called "qipao," which can be translated as "flag man's clothing."

Hairstyles changed even more drastically. The invaders obliged every adult male to shave the front part of his head, and the hair remaining at the back had to be braided into a long braid. The Manchurian braid became a symbol of national enslavement, and every uprising against Manchurian rule began with the cutting of braids. Any man without a braid could be charged with treason against the state and sentenced to death.

The qipao costume in its original version was a kind of wide scarf with a high neck collar and flared, wide sleeves. It tightly covered a woman's body, leaving only her head, hands and the tops of her shoes visible. The qipao represented a revolution in the fashion of the time, as it was worn by both men and women, and after all, according to centuries-old rules, men's and women's clothing not only had to be different, but also kept separately.

In the 18th century, rules for wearing qipao were formulated. The fabrics and number of embroideries were discussed in detail, and five types of qipao were named for the emperor and his officials. Different designs were provided for different circumstances. So there were outfits for daily wear, outfits for travel, for rainy weather, for the most solemn ceremonies at court and less important occasions. No one, except the emperor and members of his family, was allowed to wear gold-colored clothing. An imperial qipao of gold or blue color, sewn from silk, was usually decorated with embroidered nine dragons and five clouds - symbols of imperial power.

Cheongsam - the new fashion and the consequences of not knowing the language

Fundamental changes in the cut of traditional Chinese attire came with the upheaval of all previous life - in the mid-20th century, after the fall of the Qing Dynasty. Designers in Shanghai, the city considered the most "Western" in terms of cultural influence, proposed a new dress pattern to the Chinese and called it "zansae" (長衫), or simply "long dress." The northern variant of the word "chenshan" means men's dress, but it was this term in Cantonese pronunciation "cheongsam" that found its way into English and then into Western culture as a generic name for traditional Chinese dress.

The new dresses of Shanghai designers were the complete opposite of the traditional qipao. They became shorter and narrower, fitting tightly around the body. In order to move freely in such a gown, deep slits appeared on the sides. Sleeves were shortened, and then virtually disappeared altogether. The old requirement to cover a woman's arms and legs was forgotten once and for all. The new fashion prevailed throughout the country. But not for long...

Mao's uniform - a sexy outfit not for patriots

The Communists, who came to power in 1949, decided to cut all ties with the old traditions of imperial China. Following the example of Soviet comrades, the Chinese Communists aimed to create a classless society in which all citizens would be equal. Traditional Chinese dress, as well as symbols of the "rotten bourgeois West," such as suits and ties, disappeared at the same time.

Although there were no direct directives, the notion quickly spread in the nation that wearing fashionable clothing and expensive silk was unpatriotic. The slightest display of individual style and sexuality in dress was severely condemned. Women were forced to hide as deeply as possible their elegant silk qipao, high-heeled slippers, not to mention jewelry and cosmetics. Instead, they were advised to wear a modest gray uniform, not much different from the men's version. Long hair had to be shorn and hidden under a cap. As a result, the outward appearance of the average Chinese resident changed beyond recognition during the "Cultural Revolution."

Fortunately, nothing lasts forever, even in China - and lo and behold, after 1979, beautiful and elegant qipao became popular again among Chinese women. There's a reason why the Chinese say, "if you want to understand what beauty is, look at a traditional Chinese dress."